苗族曾有传说云:
There was a tale of the Miao:
4600年前,黄帝与炎帝联合起来对战蚩尤。
4600 years ago, Huangdi and Yandi united to fight against Chiyou.
图片来源:小红书@LL_鱼尾w
蚩尤大败, 族人们不得不离开已经积稻飘香、安宁和谐的家园。
Chiyou was defeated and the Miao people had to leave their peaceful homes where rice was fragrant.
大敌紧逼,稻谷种子遗落黄河,整个部落面临饥荒威胁。
Under the pressure of the enemy, rice seeds were left in the Yellow River and the whole tribe was faced with the threat of famine.
图片来源:小红书@做坦然的古怪小商店
就在这时,一只锦鸡衔来稻谷种子,挽救了整个苗族的命运。
At that moment, a golden pheasant carried seeds and saved the fate of the whole nation.
图片来源:小红书@香山菩提
于是苗族人民将锦鸡这个物象应用于各种日常生活用品之中,比如苗族的非物质文化遗产之一——苗族服饰。
Therefore, the Miao people use the image of the pheasant in various daily necessities, such as the Miao costumes, which is one of the intangible cultural heritage of the Miao.
图片来源:小红书@野原小白
苗族服饰形态各异,因为苗族本身就分为八大支系,每个支系都拥有不同特色的服装。
The Miao costumes have different forms, because the nation itself is divided into eight branches. Each branch has different characteristics of clothing.
今天将隆重介绍麻鸟、刘家村和雅灰型三个具有代表性的支系服饰。
Today, three representative branches of clothing, Maniao , Liujia Village and Yahui will be introduced.
苗族麻鸟型服饰支系
Miao Maniao Clothing Branch
“麻鸟”在苗语中即是“锦鸡”的意思,因此“麻鸟苗”又被称为“锦鸡苗”,其服饰设计包含了诸多锦鸡元素。
“Maniao” means “The Golden Pheasant” in the Miao language, so “Maniao Miao” can be called “The Golden Pheasant Miao” for its costume design contains many golden pheasant elements.
女孩们头顶的银饰银片分布较细碎,整体构成一只舒展尾翼的锦鸡,显得很有故事感。
The silver ornaments on the top of the girls' heads are finely distributed and formed a golden pheasant with an extended tail, which have a sense of story.
图片来源:小红书@北纬
下半身的裙摆以条状散布在身后,宛若锦鸡的尾羽。
The skirt of the lower part of the body is scattered behind in a strip shape, just like the tail feather of the golden pheasant.
在麻鸟村中生活的苗族几乎都属于锦鸡苗族,锦鸡舞是这里的一大非物质文化遗产。
Almost all the people living in Maniao Village belong to the Golden Pheasant Miao, and the Golden Pheasant Dance is one of the intangible cultural heritage here.
图片来源:小红书@树禾
苗族刘家村型服饰支系
Miao Liujia Village Clothing Branch
刘家村位于贵州省黔东南苗族侗族自治州丹寨县排调镇北部,其服饰被分为两种。
Located in the north of Paidiao Town, Danzhai County, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Perfecture, Guizhou Province, Liujia Village has two kinds of costumes.
第一种银饰如同冠帽,额前的细银碰撞发出的清脆响声就像风铃。
The first is more common. The silver ornaments are like crowns and hats. The clear sound of the fine silver collision in front of the forehead is like a wind chime.
图片来源:小红书@寻芹旅行
第二种的裙衣则以黑色色调为主,与头上的红花形成鲜明的对比。
The second kind of skirt is mainly black, which is in sharp contrast to the red flowers on the head.
图片来源:小红书@楚鹏
雅灰型服饰支系
Miao Yahui Clothing Branch
女孩们身着百鸟衣,头戴三叉银角,精巧的蜡染图案遍布全身,五彩的纹路在以黑色为底的苗衣上显得十分生动。
Girls are dressed in dresses with silver horns on their head and exquisite batik patterns are spread all over the body, which are vivid on the black base of the Miao clothes.
图片来源:小红书@北纬
裙摆尾部和银角顶部的白色羽毛更是点睛之笔,为厚重的服装增添一丝轻盈的美感。
White feathers at the end of the hemline and at the top of the silver horns are the finishing touches, adding a touch of lightness to the heavy outfit.
图片来源:小红书@大晴天艾米
衣之美,不知其工序几何也。
The beauty of costumes, without knowing the geometry of their process.
饰之精,不知其锻造几时也。
The delicacy of decorations, without knowing how long they were forged.
图片来源:小红书@JING
纵使样貌千百,苗族之内核却永不磨灭。
Even if there are thousands of appearances, the core will never be forgotten.
纵使几近失传,却依然有信念坚定者承袭。
Even though it was almost lost, there're still some people with firm faith who inherit it and never give up.
但求代代相传,便能生生不息。
If we pass it on from generation to generation, it can live forever.
出品:贵州卫视国际传播部
撰稿:汪美仑(实习)
图片来源:小红书(若侵犯了您的合法权益,请与本网联系,我们将及时更正与删除,谢谢!)
部分资料来源:贵州省民族宗教事务委员会,《苗学通论》
翻译:汪美仑(实习) 李秋辰
一审:李秋辰
二审:田胤星
三审:余晓莹
查看原图 152K